- Shaver Lake has a final check-in time of 10pm.
- The dirt road is DICEY
- Go as far up the dirt road as you can to the top of the dome w/better camp spots
- Watch out for poison oak
- Decent cell service
Featured Route: Elephant Walk
Elephant Walk is a best known for its first pitch, a wonderfully splitter handcrack. Beyond this there are 5 additional pitches of heady, runout slab that go at 5.7—if you can find the holds. Elephant Walk weaves around a direct route with which it shares the slabby face that goes at 5.10a. Don’t get lost!
Hug the rock past the approach for Tollhouse Traverse. Elephant Walk is maybe 100m further down the trail immediately to the right of a large 15’ block, and to the left of a large flake. The “obvious crack” in the beta is pretty obvious.
Pitch 1: 5.7 2 bolt anchor
The qualityof the first pitch cannot be denied. Stiff for 5.7, decent footholds a finger crack opens up for the last 15m to excellent splitter hands. Pro to 3.5”.
Pitch 2: 5.6 PG-13 4 bolts, 2 bolt anchor
The route continues over relatively more featured slab to the flake on your right, then straight up. Do NOT go straight up. Overlapping much of this route is Shining Path and its hell slab significantly less featured 10b slab. This rule applies to the third pitch as well.
Finish your vision quest over the the small bulge up and to your left where a 2 bolt anchor is hiding. There are 2 bolts in the first 15m then 2 more over the remaining 85ft and can be very heady.
Pitch 3: 5.7 PG-13 4 bolts, 2 bolt anchor
Go up to the immediately visible bolt, then make a hard right to the newer bolt. If you continue up to the second bolt, you will face a 5.10 traverse across the dike. From the second, newer bolt, head directly up past two shallow dihedrals. Continue through two more bolts and finish at a two bolt anchor. 5 bolts total.
Pitch 4: 5.5, 2 bolt anchor
At this point you can meet up with Tollhouse Traverse’s 3rd pitch and continue left along the crack and over the shelf mantle move to another 2 bolt anchor
Pitch 5: 3rd class, Tree Anchor
Cruiser 3rd class leads to a large tree where you can build an anchor .
May 13-14, 2017
3.5 hour drive from south bay
Depart Friday night.
BLM land, no permits needed
Location TBD (guidebook)?
- Saturday: Oatmeal w/ fixings
- Sunday: Oatmeal w/ fixings
- Saturday: PB&J and banana
- Sunday: PB&J and banana
- Friday: Eat on the way down (black bear diner?)
- Sunday: Restaurant on the way back
Tollhouse Traverse, Tollhouse Rock (5.5, 4 pitches) MP
Elephant Walk, Tollhouse Rock (5.7, 4 pitches, 6 pitches, 3 pitches, bailed off of Tollhouse Traverse) MP
Nuts and Bolts, Tollhouse Rock (5.7, 4 pitches) MP
Taking a Bath with Strangers, Hippo Wall (5.8+, 1 pitch) MP
Beginner’s Delight, Tollhouse Rock (5.8, 4 pitches) MP
Things we’re definitely doing next time
- Brooks will have a trad rack
Things we’re going to do again next time
- Bring tons of water
- Salami and cheese