“Don’t Tell Mom” – A Weekend At Tollhouse Rock3 min read

Brooks On The Summit Block

Notes

  • Shaver Lake has a final check-in time of 10pm.
  • The dirt road is DICEY
  • Go as far up the dirt road as you can to the top of the dome w/better camp spots
  • Watch out for poison oak
  • Decent cell service

Featured Route: Elephant Walk

Elephant Walk is a best known for its first pitch, a wonderfully splitter handcrack.  Beyond this there are 5 additional pitches of heady, runout slab that go at 5.7—if you can find the holds. Elephant Walk weaves around a direct route with which it shares the slabby face that goes at 5.10a. Don’t get lost!

Approach

Hug the rock past the approach for Tollhouse Traverse.  Elephant Walk is maybe 100m further down the trail immediately to the right of a large 15’ block, and to the left of a large flake. The “obvious crack” in the beta is pretty obvious.

Pitch 1: 5.7 2 bolt anchor

The qualityof the first pitch cannot be denied. Stiff for 5.7, decent footholds a finger crack opens up for the last 15m to excellent splitter hands.  Pro to 3.5”.

Pitch 2: 5.6 PG-13 4 bolts, 2 bolt anchor

The route continues over relatively more featured slab to the flake on your right, then straight up.  Do NOT go straight up. Overlapping much of this route is Shining Path and its hell slab significantly less featured 10b slab. This rule applies to the third pitch as well.

Finish your vision quest over the the small bulge up and to your left where a 2 bolt anchor is hiding. There are 2 bolts in the first 15m then 2 more over the remaining 85ft and can be very heady.

Pitch 3: 5.7 PG-13 4 bolts, 2 bolt anchor

Go up to the immediately visible bolt, then make a hard right to the newer bolt.  If you continue up to the second bolt, you will face a 5.10 traverse across the dike. From the second, newer bolt, head directly up past two shallow dihedrals.  Continue through two more bolts and finish at a two bolt anchor. 5 bolts total.

Pitch 4: 5.5, 2 bolt anchor

At this point you can meet up with Tollhouse Traverse’s 3rd pitch and continue left along the crack and over the shelf mantle move to another 2 bolt anchor

Pitch 5: 3rd class, Tree Anchor

Cruiser 3rd class leads to a large tree where you can build an anchor .  

Dates

May 13-14, 2017

Members

John Oberbeck

Brooks Ryan

Transit

John’s car

3.5 hour drive from south bay

Depart Friday night.

Camping

BLM land, no permits needed

Location TBD (guidebook)?

Food

Breakfast:

  • Saturday: Oatmeal w/ fixings
  • Sunday: Oatmeal w/ fixings

Lunch:

  • Saturday: PB&J and banana
  • Sunday: PB&J and banana

Dinner:

  • Friday: Eat on the way down (black bear diner?)
  • Saturday:
  • Sunday: Restaurant on the way back

Climbs

Tollhouse Traverse, Tollhouse Rock (5.5, 4 pitches) MP

Elephant Walk, Tollhouse Rock (5.7, 4 pitches, 6 pitches, 3 pitches, bailed off of Tollhouse Traverse) MP

Nuts and Bolts, Tollhouse Rock (5.7, 4 pitches) MP

Taking a Bath with Strangers, Hippo Wall (5.8+, 1 pitch) MP

Beginner’s Delight, Tollhouse Rock (5.8, 4 pitches) MP

Retro

Things we’re definitely doing next time

  • Brooks will have a trad rack

Things we’re going to do again next time

  • Bring tons of water
  • Salami and cheese

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